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Mu dongosolo lovuta la mankhwala osamalira tsitsi, gawo lililonse limakhala ndi ntchito yakeyake ndipo limagwira ntchito limodzi kuti likwaniritse mawonekedwe abwino komanso mtundu wake.Glyceryl monothioglycolate(CAS 30618-84-9), monga chinthu chofunikira chochepetsera asidi, ngakhale kuti sichinthu chofunikira kwambiri pakupaka utoto ndi utoto mwachindunji wa tsitsi, chimagwira ntchito yofunika kwambiri pakupaka utoto wa tsitsi. Makhalidwe ake apadera a mankhwala amapereka chithandizo chofunikira pakuwonjezera mphamvu ya utoto wa tsitsi ndikuchepetsa kuwonongeka kwa tsitsi.

I. Makhalidwe a Chigawo: Chochepetsa pang'ono acidity m'malo okhala ndi asidi

Kuti timvetse ntchito ya glyceryl monothioglycolate pakupaka utoto tsitsi, choyamba ndikofunikira kufotokoza bwino momwe imagwirira ntchito. Gawoli ndi la banja la thiol compound. Gulu la thiol (-SH) lomwe lili mu kapangidwe kake ka mamolekyu limagwira ntchito yochepetsa kwambiri, pomwe gulu la glyceride limapatsa kusungunuka kwabwino kwa madzi komanso kugwirizana ndi khungu. Poyerekeza ndi mankhwala ochepetsa alkaline, ubwino waukulu wa glyceryl monothioglycolate uli mu pH yake yochepa ya acidic (nthawi zambiri 3.0-4.0). Khalidweli limathandiza kuti lizitha kuchepetsa tsitsi pamene likupewa kuwonongeka kwakukulu kwa khungu la tsitsi chifukwa cha zigawo za alkaline kwambiri. Ikani maziko a "chithandizo chofatsa" cha njira yotsatira yopaka utoto tsitsi.

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Ponena za kukhazikika,glyceryl monothioglycolateSichimawonongeka mosavuta m'machitidwe a asidi ndipo chimatha kusunga ntchito yake yochepetsa kwa nthawi yayitali. Izi zimapangitsa kuti chikhale choyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito mogwirizana ndi mamolekyu a pigment, ma buffer ndi zinthu zina mu utoto wa tsitsi kuti apange njira zosamalira tsitsi zokhazikika. Pakadali pano, kapangidwe kake ka glyceride kamatha kupanganso filimu yoteteza pamwamba pa tsitsi, kuchepetsa kuwonongeka kwa kapangidwe ka mkati mwa tsitsi komwe kumachitika chifukwa cha mankhwala ena, kupereka njira yabwino yothandizira kupenta tsitsi lowonongeka kapena tsitsi lofewa komanso losalala.

II. Udindo waukulu pakupaka utoto wa tsitsi: Tsegulani "njira" ndikuwonjezera kulimba kwa mitundu

Chofunika kwambiri pa njira yopaka utoto wa tsitsi ndi kulowa ndi kukhazikika kwa mamolekyu a pigment mkati mwa tsitsi. Komabe, zotchinga zachilengedwe za tsitsi - ma cuticles ndi mapangidwe a keratin - zimaletsa mwachindunji kulowa kwa mamolekyu a pigment. Ntchito yaikulu ya glyceryl monomercaptoacetate ndikuswa chotchinga ichi kudzera mu zochita za mankhwala ndi "kutsegula njira" za mamolekyu a pigment.

1. Dulani ma disulfide bonds ndikufewetsa kapangidwe ka tsitsi

Mphamvu ndi kusinthasintha kwa tsitsi zimadalira makamaka ma bond a disulfide (-SS-) pakati pa mamolekyu a keratin. Gulu la thiol (-SH) mu Glyceryl monothioglycolate limatha kuchitapo kanthu ndi ma bond a disulfide, kuwachepetsa kukhala magulu awiri a thiol (-SH + -SS- → -SS- + -SH), motero kumadula mgwirizano pakati pa keratin. Njirayi imapangitsa kapangidwe ka tsitsi kukhala kofewa komanso kofewa, ma cuticle amatseguka pang'onopang'ono, ndipo malo oyambira amkati mwa tsitsi amatulutsidwa, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti mamolekyu a pigment alowe mu utoto wa tsitsi.

Poyerekeza ndi mercaptoacetic acid yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito mu alkaline hair perming agents, malo okhala ndi asidi ochepa a glyceryl monothioglycolate amatha kuwongolera bwino kuchuluka kwa disulfide bond breakage, kupewa kuwonongeka kwakukulu komwe kumabweretsa kusweka komanso kusweka mosavuta. Deta yoyesera ikuwonetsa kuti panthawi yomweyi yokonza, mukamagwiritsa ntchito mankhwala ochiritsira omwe ali ndi gawoli, kuchuluka kwa disulfide bond breakage mu tsitsi kumatha kulamulidwa pa 30%-40%, zomwe sizingakwaniritse zofunikira za pigment kulowa komanso kusunga mphamvu zoposa 70% ya makina a tsitsi.

2. Konzani bwino utoto kuti muwonjezere nthawi yogwiritsira ntchito utoto wa tsitsi

Pamene khungu la tsitsi limatseguka ndipo kapangidwe ka tsitsi kamafewa, mamolekyu a pigment mu utoto wa tsitsi (monga ma intermediates a utoto wosungunuka ndi mamolekyu ang'onoang'ono a utoto wolunjika) amatha kulowa mu cortex ya tsitsi bwino. Malo okhala ndi asidi pang'ono a glyceryl monothioglycolate amathanso kuwongolera momwe tsitsi limakhalira mkati - tsitsi limakhala ndi mphamvu yabwino pansi pa acidity, ndikupanga kukopa kwa electrostatic ndi mamolekyu a pigment omwe ali ndi mphamvu yoipa, kuthandiza mamolekyu a pigment kumamatira kwambiri ku keratin ndikuchepetsa kutayika kwa utoto panthawi yotsuka.

Mu ntchito zothandiza, kulimba kwa zotsatira za utoto wa tsitsi kumatha kuwonjezeka ndi 20% mpaka 30% mutalandira chithandizo ndi mankhwala ochiritsira omwe ali ndiglyceryl monothioglycolateMwachitsanzo, nthawi yotha utoto wa tsitsi wamba pa tsitsi lofewa ndi lofewa ndi pafupifupi milungu 4 mpaka 6. Komabe, mutalandira chithandizo ichi, nthawi yotha utoto imatha kuwonjezeredwa mpaka milungu 6 mpaka 8, ndipo kukhuta kwa utoto kumakhala kofanana, kupewa mavuto monga kutha kwa tsitsi ndi kusiyana kwakukulu kwa mitundu yatsopano pa mizu ya tsitsi.

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III. Zitsanzo Zogwiritsira Ntchito: Zogwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri mu "kusita ndi kupaka utoto molumikizana"

Ngakhale kuti glyceryl monothioglycolate ingathandize kuyika utoto wa tsitsi, siwonjezedwa mwachindunji ku utoto wa tsitsi koma nthawi zambiri imapezeka mu zinthu zoyika utoto (makamaka zinthu zoyika utoto wa acidic) kapena zinthu zokonzera tsitsi zisanakonzedwe, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti pakhale "zogwirizana" ndi njira yoyika utoto wa tsitsi. Zochitika zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri zimaphatikizapo magulu awiri otsatirawa:

1. Ndondomeko yoteteza tsitsi lowonongeka ndi "perm choyamba, kenako utoto"

Pa tsitsi lowonongeka lomwe limayambitsidwa ndi kupindika ndi kudayidwa pafupipafupi, njira yachikhalidwe ya "kupindika koyamba kenako kudayidwa" imapangitsa kuti tsitsi litaye kulimba kwake konse chifukwa cha kuwonongeka kwa mankhwala awiri. Pakadali pano, chinthu chopindika cha asidi chokhala ndi glyceryl monothioglycolate chimakhala chofunikira kwambiri: malo ake okhala ndi asidi pang'ono amatha kuchepetsa kuwonongeka kwa ma cuticle panthawi ya kupindika, pomwe pang'onopang'ono kuswa ma disulfide bonds, kulola tsitsi kupanga mawonekedwe opindika pamene likusunga kulimba kwina. Mukapindika tsitsi pambuyo pake, ma cuticle otsegulidwa amalola mamolekyu a pigment kulowa mwachangu, kuchotsa kufunikira kwa utoto wowonjezera wa tsitsi wokhala ndi alkaline yambiri ndikuchepetsa chiopsezo cha kuwonongeka kawiri.

2. Chithandizo cha "Kukongoletsa Utoto" cha tsitsi lofewa komanso lofewa

Kuchuluka kwa keratin kwa tsitsi lofewa ndi lofewa ndi kochepa, ndipo kapangidwe ka ma cuticle ndi kopyapyala. Akapaka utoto mwachindunji, mamolekyu a pigment amamatira pamwamba ndipo zimakhala zovuta kulowa mu cortex layer, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti mtundu uwoneke bwino komanso mtundu uzitha kutha mosavuta. Pakadali pano, mutha kugwiritsa ntchito kaye mankhwala ochiritsira omwe ali ndi glyceryl monothioglycolate pa tsitsi lanu: kuchepetsa kwake kumatha kuswa pang'ono ma disulfide bonds mu tsitsi lofewa ndi lofewa, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti kapangidwe ka tsitsi kakhale "komasuka", ndipo nthawi yomweyo, filimu yoteteza yomwe imapangidwa ndi magulu a glyceryl ester pamwamba pa tsitsi imatha kuletsa kutayika kwakukulu kwa mamolekyu a pigment. Pambuyo pochiza tsitsi lisanapaka utoto, mamolekyu a pigment amatha kugawidwa mofanana mu cortex layer, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti mtundu uwoneke bwino, ndipo zimathanso kuchepetsa kuyabwa kwa ammonia, hydrogen peroxide ndi zinthu zina mu utoto wa tsitsi kukhala tsitsi lofewa ndi lofewa.

IV. Malangizo Ogwiritsira Ntchito: Kuchuluka kwa ziwengo ndi mgwirizano wa formula ndizofunikira kwambiri

Ngakhale kuti glyceryl monothioglycolate ili ndi ubwino waukulu pothandiza kuyika utoto wa tsitsi, chifukwa cha mankhwala ake, chitetezo ndi kulondola kwa njira ziyenera kuyang'aniridwa mosamala mukamagwiritsa ntchito kuti mupewe zoopsa zomwe zingachitike.

1. Kuopsa kwa ziwengo: Mayeso a khungu ayenera kuchitidwa

Glyceryl monothioglycolate ndi ya gulu la mankhwala a thiol ndipo ndi imodzi mwa zinthu zomwe zimayambitsa ziwengo mu zinthu zosamalira tsitsi. Kaya ndi kukhudzana ndi tsitsi kwa nthawi yayitali ndi akatswiri osamalira tsitsi (monga kukhudzana ndi khungu la manja mobwerezabwereza ndi chinthucho) kapena ogula omwe amagwiritsa ntchito zinthu zopaka utoto zomwe zili ndi chinthuchi, zingayambitse dermatitis yokhudzana ndi khungu - zizindikiro zake zimaonekera ngati kufiira, kuyabwa, ndi kutentha pakhungu. Pa milandu yoopsa, matuza, kuchotsedwa kwa khungu kumatha kuchitika, komanso kufalikira kumadera okhudzidwa monga nkhope ndi khosi.

Glyceryl monothioglycolateChofunika kwambiri ndichakuti chigawochi chingakhalebe mutsitsi chikatha kupendekeka kapena kupakidwa utoto kwa miyezi itatu. Ngakhale ngati palibe vuto lililonse panthawi yoyamba kugwiritsa ntchito, zotsalirazo zitha kupitiliza kukhudzana ndi khungu la mutu panthawi yotsuka tsitsi ndi kupesa, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti ziwengo zichedwe. Chifukwa chake, zinthu zonse zosamalira tsitsi zomwe zili ndi chophatikizachi ziyenera kuyesedwa khungu kwa maola 48 kumbuyo kwa khutu kapena mkati mwa mkono musanagwiritse ntchito. Pambuyo potsimikizira kuti palibe zomwe zimachitika monga kufiira, kutupa, kapena kuyabwa, zitha kugwiritsidwa ntchito pakhungu la mutu.

2. Kudalira njira yogwiritsira ntchito: Sizingagwiritsidwe ntchito zokha

Zotsatira za Glyceryl monothioglycolate zimadalira kwambiri mgwirizano wa formula ndipo sizingagwiritsidwe ntchito yokha posamalira tsitsi. Kumbali imodzi, iyenera kuphatikizidwa ndi ma buffers (monga citric acid ndi sodium dihydrogen phosphate) kuti ikhale ndi malo okhazikika a acidic pang'ono. Ngati formulayo ilibe ma buffers, pH yake ikhoza kuwonjezeka pakapita nthawi yosungira, osati kungotaya kufatsa kwake komanso mwina kungayambitse kuchepa kwa ntchito. Kumbali ina, iyenera kuphatikizidwa ndi ma chelating agents (monga disodium EDTA) kuti aletse calcium ndi magnesium ions m'madzi kuti asagwirizane ndi zigawozo ndikusokoneza kukhazikika.

Kuphatikiza apo, chosakaniza ichi chili ndi zotsutsana ndi zinthu zamchere kwambiri, monga utoto wa tsitsi wokhala ndi ammonia woposa 3%. Ngati chisakanizidwa mwachindunji ndi utoto wa tsitsi wokhala ndi alkaline wambiri, malo okhala ndi asidi ochepa adzasokonezeka. Sikuti chidzalephera kokha kupangitsa mtundu kukhala wabwino, komanso chingapangitse mpweya wokwiyitsa, kuwononga tsitsi kwambiri komanso kuyabwa kwa khungu. Chifukwa chake, zinthu zolepheretsa tsitsi kapena zinthu zochizira tsitsi zomwe zili ndi chinthuchi ziyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito mosinthana ndi utoto wa tsitsi (nthawi zambiri zimalimbikitsidwa kupaka tsitsi maola 24 mpaka 48 mutachotsa tsitsi), ndipo kukhudzana mwachindunji kuyenera kupewedwa.

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3. Kusamalira zotsalira: Kuyeretsa bwino kumafunika mukamaliza kusita ndi kupaka utoto

Popeza glyceryl monothioglycolate ikhoza kukhalabe mu tsitsi kwa nthawi yayitali, pambuyo poti njira yodulira ndi kuyika utoto yatha, ndikofunikira kutsuka tsitsi bwino ndi shampu yoteteza kuti muchotse zinthu zotsala. Mukamatsuka, ndibwino kugwiritsa ntchito madzi ofunda (pafupifupi 37℃) kuti mupewe kukwiyitsa khungu la mutu ndi madzi otentha kwambiri. Nthawi yomweyo, mutha kugwiritsa ntchito chowongolera chokhala ndi panthenol ndi ceramide kuti mukonze ma cuticle owonongeka ndikuchepetsa kuwononga kosalekeza kwa zinthu zotsala pa tsitsi.​

V. Mapeto: "Kusasinthika" kwa Maudindo Othandizira

Ngakhaleglyceryl monothioglycolate CAS 30618-84-9Sichinthu chofunikira kwambiri pakupaka utoto ndi utoto wa tsitsi, chakhala "chothandizira chofewa" pakupaka utoto wa tsitsi chifukwa cha mphamvu yake yochepetsera asidi pang'ono. Glyceryl monothioglycolate imapereka njira yotetezeka komanso yothandiza kwambiri pakupaka utoto wa tsitsi lowonongeka ndi tsitsi lofewa mwa kutsegula ma cuticle ndikuwonjezera utoto. Nthawi yomweyo, imayikanso maziko owongolera kulimba ndi kuwonetsa mtundu wa utoto wa tsitsi.

Komabe, kuthekera kwake kukhala ndi ziwengo komanso kudalira kwa formula kumatikumbutsanso kuti kugwiritsa ntchito zinthu zosamalira tsitsi kuyenera kuganizira momwe zimagwirira ntchito komanso chitetezo. Kaya ndi ogula kapena ometa tsitsi, ayenera kumvetsetsa bwino mawonekedwe a zosakanizazo ndikutsatira mosamala malamulo ogwiritsira ntchito monga kuyesa khungu, kuyanjana kwa formula, ndi kuyeretsa bwino, kuti "chothandizira ichi" chikhale ndi gawo lake pochepetsa zoopsa paumoyo kwambiri. M'tsogolomu, ndi chitukuko cha ukadaulo wa chemistry wokongoletsa tsitsi, formula ya glyceryl monothioglycolate ikhoza kukonzedwanso bwino. Mwachitsanzo, poisakaniza ndi zotulutsa za zomera (monga chotsitsa cha tiyi wobiriwira ndi chotsitsa cha chamomile), zotsatira zake zothandizira zitha kusungidwa pomwe zimachepetsa kwambiri ziwengo, kupereka yankho lotetezeka komanso lofatsa la munda wopaka utoto wa tsitsi.